Travel South Africa: Taming Lion’s Head in Cape Town
Stunning views of the Atlantic reward those who make the climb up Lion’s Head
Travel South Africa: Taming Lion’s Head in Cape Town
By Patti Morrow
September 3, 2014
“This must be one of the most beautiful views in the world,” I suggested to my brother, Steve. I stood precariously on a precipice taking in the iconic view of Table Bay and the Mother City – Cape Town, South Africa. I walked just a few steps to the other side of the abyss and found another stunning view of the Atlantic coastline.
Lion’s Head is part of the Table Mountain range, rising to 2,195 feet above sea level. Named by 17th century Dutch settlers, Lion’s Head and the adjacent mountain at Signal Hill, which is sometimes called “the Lion’s Rump,” form a crouching feline.
A couple of the guidebooks said it would take one hour to hike to the top. Well, maybe – and I do mean maybe – if you are an athletic, avid hiker. I am relatively fit, but it took me around three hours to reach the top. Perhaps the hot sun slowed me down… Yes, that’s my excuse, and I’m sticking with it.
The majority of the walk is challenging but doable and very enjoyable if you pace yourself; and the reward at the top is worth the effort.
The ascent starts with a gravel path at Signal Hill Road, at the base of the Forestry Road. It looked so innocent. I thought this would be the easiest part. I was wrong. While the path is wide and flat, the ascent was steeper than it looks and sweat was inevitable. Luckily there are benches built in along the way, to give some people a break for their lungs and quads.
Benches for resting were appreciated
The path continues as it circles around the mountain in a clockwise direction, getting more narrow and rocky. There are places all along the way to find a flat rock to sit, take a sip of water, and take the spectacular view.
I called this part the lemon squeeze!
Every turn opens to a new gorgeous view of the city. On the horizon we saw Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles mountain chain. Another turn brought the gorgeous beaches at Camp’s Bay and Clifton. On a clear day, you can see Robben Island, where South Africa’s president Nelson Mandela served a 19 year imprisonment.
We stopped frequently to take in the views
The Twelve Apostles make a stunning backdrop
As you spiral your way up, you’ll notice the terrain changing. Natural steps made out of rocks confront you, beckoning you to use hands and feet to continue the forward progress.
Stone steps
The last section is sheer with a lot of large boulders, which increases the difficulty of this walk. The top of the “head” reveals itself, looking ferociously impossible to scale.
The top of Lion’s Head
Metal rungs and ladders are set into the side of the cliff to assist in navigating the vertical inclines.
Metal rungs to help navigate the steep rock
A little further up, we encountered a series of chains to help scramble up the craggy face of the mountain. I admit, the vertical part with the chains intimidated me, and it took a little coaxing, but I finally did it.
The chains were pretty scary!
There is an alternate route which bypasses the chains and ladders, but it’s longer and still quite steep and rocky.
Huffing and puffing, I did make it to the top. I looked at Steve, and we both broke out in grins from ear-to-ear. Awe-inspiring, 360 degree panoramic views of Cape Town in its entirety.
The summit views were beyond expectation
Giddy from my achievement, I could not resist the photo ops to scare my family and friends to death on social media. I found several outcroppings that appeared perilous for “top of the world” shots overlooking the sea and city.
Top-of-the-world daredevil photos
Descending, I chose to take the longer route rather than try to descend on the chains. Tired body aside, and I know my limitations.
The hike ends in exactly the same point as it begins. In all, it took us about 4 hours round trip including stops to catch my breath and a multitude of photos along the way. Add to that another hour at the top for photos and to socialize with the few other hikers up there.
Lion’s Head is a moderately strenuous hike. It is worth the exertion, but not for faint of heart, elderly, small children or anyone in poor physical condition. Be sure to take plenty of water and some snacks. I also recommend dressing in layers that can be removed or put on and good walking shoes. Don’t forget a hat and sunscreen as the rays can get intense during mid-day. And like most advice for Cape Town, go during the day and/or with someone due the city’s reputation for crime.
Bio
Patti Morrow
Patti Morrow was born with incurable wanderlust, eventually leading her to a career as a freelance travel writer and photographer. She specializes in women’s adventure travel and has traveled throughout most of the United States and 35 countries abroad.
Patti has been published in numerous media, including International Living, Women’s Home Journal, Travel Post Monthly, MORE magazine, WAVEJourney.com, and Diva Toolbox and was featured on Tori Johnson (of Good Morning America) Spark and Hustle.
She is the editor of Luggage, Lipstick and Laptop, an online resource for women’s adventure travel, and is a member of ITWPA, AWAI, Intrepid Travel, Media Kitty, and TravelWriters.com.
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