Travel Idaho: Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes
Ethel and Terry DeMarr Bike the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes in Idaho
Travel Idaho: Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes
By Ethel DeMarr
Idaho Bicycle Idyll
No cars. No hills. Smooth paved road. Gorgeous scenery. Sounds like a road cyclist’s dream. And it is. The Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes in northern Idaho is one of the most scenic and popular cycling trails in the western United States for good reason. With over 70 miles of asphalt, the trail stretches from the southern shores of Lake Coeur d’Alene, following the Coeur d’Alene River past lakes and through pristine forests. The trail spans nearly the entire width of Idaho’s panhandle through the dramatic and historic Silver Valley, generally paralleling Interstate 90. Once a railroad line servicing the silver mines, this “rails to trails” route takes you into the richest silver mining region in the world. We could not resist all this and headed to Idaho in late August.
We began our trek at Plummer, Idaho, just south of Coeur d’Alene on the Coeur d’Alene Indian Reservation. This trailhead is known as the Gathering Place and is the western end of the trail. Above average lodging is available at the nearby Coeur d’Alene Casino and Resort Hotel if you wish to spend a night before or after your trip down the trail. Free, safe parking is available at the trailhead or the Casino Hotel will shuttle cyclists and their bikes to this starting point.
Our plan was to ride 64 miles to Wallace, Idaho, spend the night at a hotel and ride back the next day. This is just one of many options. There are 20 accessible trailheads where one may join the trail and 17 scenic waysides with picnic tables, benches, restrooms and interpretive/educational signage. One could start from any trailhead and ride a few miles or many. While camping is not allowed on the trail corridor, there are private and public campgrounds close to the trail. Lodging is available in Harrison, Kellogg, Wallace and Mullan (the eastern end of the trail, mile 70). During the summer, there are services that will shuttle your car from one end of the trail to the other end. This would eliminate the return trip we planned.
Bike the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes in Idaho
We left the parking lot and immediately the trail took us into the woods along the southern shore of Lake Coeur d’Alene. Although civilization was not far, we felt as though we were on a wilderness adventure. After six miles we passed Heyburn State Park on the lakeshore and caught our first glimpse of the 3,100 foot trestle bridge spanning the lake. Following the route of the old railroad, we crossed this imposing structure and were impressed that it was preserved only for cyclists and pedestrians. This was just the first of 36 bridges and trestles that we would cross as we made our way over mountain streams, white water rivers, lakes and wetlands.
Bridge on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes in Idaho
Harrison (mile 15) was the first community we encountered. There is a bike shop here, restaurants and small markets for picnic or other supplies. Options for eating become limited for the next 27 miles, or until you reach Cataldo. The Mission Inn at Cataldo is a great place to stop for lunch. The food was generous and tasty after 40 plus miles. There is a nice shady picnic area adjacent where you can enjoy outdoor dining.
The Mission Inn at Cataldo
From the Cataldo trailhead and the Mission Inn, you can take an easy 6 mile side trip to visit the oldest building in Idaho, the Cataldo Mission. Built in 1850 by Jesuit missionaries, this wilderness church is located on a lovely hillside with nice views of the area. In addition to this historic and unique church, there is a visitor center with displays of Native American photos, artifacts and information relating to the early interactions between the missionaries and the natives.
Cataldo Mission
From Cataldo, the trail enters the narrow mountain valley know as the Silver Valley. This part of northern Idaho is the home of the richest silver mining district in the world. Since the late 1800’s, miners have been harvesting silver and other valuable minerals from deep underground mines. Over a billion ounces of silver has been produced; enough silver dollars to encircled the earth at the Equator. Towns such as Kellogg, Wallace and Mullan owe their origins to this mining history. The entire town of Wallace is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is well worth the overnight visit.
Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes
Significantly, without this mining heritage, the bike trail would probably not exist. The railroad that serviced this valley was built on mine waste rock and tailings contaminated with heavy metals. In addition, the bed was continually polluted by accidental ore concentrate spillage. The trail is the result of the clean up activities undertaken by Union Pacific Railroad, the federal government, the State of Idaho and the Coeur d’Alene Tribe. In some areas, old mine tailings were dug up and removed to an average of 12 feet and replaced with clean fill. A thick layer of asphalt was added with gravel barriers on either side to create the smooth, environmentally safe trail. From an environmental disaster, a unique environmental jewel was created.
Wallace, Idaho
We enjoyed an afternoon and evening in Wallace, exploring its Mining Museum, the Brothel Museum and its many shops, bars and restaurants. Wallace boasts two micro brew pubs just in case you are thirsty after your ride! We especially enjoyed the Fainting Goat Wine Bar for a good selection of wines by the glass and tasty, fresh small plates.
The Fainting Goat Wine Bar in Wallace, Idaho
Many may choose not to do the return trip on their bikes, but we were happy we did. There are always sights that you miss along the way and a slight cloud cover cast a different light on the vistas. A highlight of our return journey was the sighting of a moose, at a respectful distance, of course. None-the-less, it is always thrilling to see these magnificent animals in the wild.
No permits or reservations are required to travel the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. Any kind of bike will suffice; gears optional! No need to be an endurance athlete; it’s easy! So, no excuses! Grab your bike and head to Idaho!
Travel Idaho: Biking the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes
Read More Travel Tips and Tales from Ethel and Terry DeMarr’s Adventures:
- Elephant Orphanage
- Isles of Scilly
- Notes from Cornwall: National Trails and National Trust
- Notes from Cornwall: Food and Random Thoughts
