Seduced By A Schooner ~ A Tall Ship Tale! Article by Jill Hoelting, photos by Vivienne Chapleo
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First, some details - History:
The Zodiac, the last American pilot
schooner, sails out of Fairhaven Cruise
Ship Terminal in Bellingham, Washington.
This two-masted, gaff-rigged schooner
has the largest working mainsail on the
west coast. Designed by William H.
Hand, Jr. and built for the heirs of the
Johnson & Johnson family, she was first
launched in 1924. With an overall length
of 160ft, a topmast height of 127ft,
7000sf of sail area and at 146 tons, The
Schooner Zodiac is a sight to behold!
Now owned by Vessel Zodiac
Corporation, the schooner has enjoyed
over 30 years of loving restoration and
plies the waters of Puget Sound & the
San Juan and Gulf Islands. Since 1982,
The Zodiac has earned recognition on the
National Register of Historic Places.
Now, back to my story - Day 1:
Under a blissfully sunny sky, the July
"Nauti-Girls Cruise" departed the dock
with a group of women, strangers ~
soon to become friends. I think we were
all filled with awe tinged with a
tentativeness about our new
surroundings. The Zodiac with all its
In 1902, English poet and writer John Masefield's "Sea Fever" was first published. The lyric poem
begins:
I MUST go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by,
And the wheel's kick and the wind's song and the white sail's shaking,
And a gray mist on the sea's face, and a gray dawn breaking.
This poem has always evoked a yearning within me for a tall ship experience. That dream of
mine was realized this summer when I joined the historic tall ship, Schooner Zodiac, on a sailing
adventure for women only, dubbed the "Nauti-Girls Cruise". For me, I couldn't find the lonely
Masefield referenced, as I found myself among a fabulous group of fun-loving women sailors and
adventure-hounds!

varnished wood, tackle, booms and sails presented a powerful image. For
the next three days/two nights we were going to channel that power and
become empowered as women working together to learn a new skill or
embellish what we already knew and actually sail this magnificent tall ship.
Our group was comprised of 17 women passengers complemented with a
crew of a dozen, five of those being men. The men, appreciating the
mission of this particular women-only cruise, were most respectful and
were low-key with their presence. The age range of our fellow sailing
passengers was mid-twenties to mid-sixties.
After being assigned our bunks for
the next two nights and instructed
that our mugs hanging from the
galley ceiling were numbered
according to our bunk number, we
had time to help ourselves to
coffee and muffins as Zodiac
cruised into Bellingham Bay.
Within an hour of setting out from
the dock, the wind was
cooperating enough to set the
sails and enjoy the thrill of
maneuvering this historic tall ship
for a few hours through the San
Juan Islands. We had all been
assigned to an experienced crew
member at various stations and
that's where we would learn the
ropes (pun intended) for the next
few days. As a novice sailor, most
of what was asked of me may as


well have been said in an unintelligible foreign language - I was pretty
clueless as to what to do. But, the well-sailed crew patiently, quickly and
adeptly gave me all the instruction necessary to get the job at hand done,
haul the mainsail and secure the lines. I was so glad I'd brought leather
gloves to use for this event, it sure saved these soft hands.

When the winds stopped, the sails were lowered and our afternoon was
spent motoring towards Sucia Island where we moored overnight in Echo
Bay. As soon as the anchor was dropped, passengers had the option to go
for a paddle in one of the two tandem kayaks, find a quiet spot to read and
absorb the day's adventures, or gather around with our new friends to play
games, drink wine and swap life stories.
Surrounded by calm waters and a clear night, I decided to grab my sleeping
bag and spend the night on deck. There's no better way to take in this
wondrous setting than sleeping out in the open while listening to the
sounds of seals playing and watching shooting stars in the night sky. The
two nights I spent sleeping out on deck have left a most gratifying impact
on me ~ an appreciation for those that have sailed this stunning beauty.